How do you draw from an ancient object without simply reproducing it? For YSSO, the answer lies in understanding the original form — its proportions, symbolism, materiality and purpose — and then allowing it to evolve. Historic jewellery was created for different bodies, rituals and ways of dressing. Its scale, weight and construction do not always translate naturally into contemporary life. Rather than recreating an ancient object exactly, we look at what gives it its character: a curve, an irregular surface, a particular proportion, a fastening, or the symbolism carried by its form. These elements become a starting point rather than a set of instructions.
Uncovering ancient forms and the stories behind their symbols
The process begins with observation. Archaeological objects, ancient sculpture, architecture and the material culture of the Aegean provide a vocabulary of forms that can be studied, abstracted and reinterpreted. Rather than copying an artefact literally, we look for the elements that make it recognisable: the relationship between volumes, the rhythm of repeated forms, the irregularity of a handmade surface, or the symbolic meaning attached to a motif. Some references remain visible; others become almost imperceptible. A historical form might be enlarged, elongated, simplified or reduced to a single line. What matters is preserving something of its original character while allowing the resulting piece to belong unmistakably to the present. This is where the current article goes especially wrong: it tells you to “map a garment’s construction” by tracing seam lines and grain onto pattern blocks. For YSSO, the equivalent idea is studying an artefact’s geometry, surface, construction and symbolism and translating those into a new sculptural object.
Translate mapped architecture into sculptural, asymmetrical wearable talisman.
Selecting materials and finishes for comfortable, long-lasting pieces
Material is fundamental to how jewellery feels as well as how it looks. YSSO works primarily with solid bronze, sterling silver and natural stones, using traditional jewellery-making techniques in family-run workshops in Athens.
Bronze allows us to create substantial, sculptural forms without the prohibitive weight and cost that the same scale might carry in solid gold. Our gold-coloured pieces are finished in recycled 18k or 24k gold plating, while our silver pieces are made in .925 sterling silver.
Surface is equally important. We often favour finishes that retain evidence of the hand rather than striving for mechanical uniformity. Slight variations in texture and form are part of the character of an object made individually by an artisan.
Adapting the proportion and scale of pieces for the modern wearer
A form can be historically compelling and still need to be reconsidered for the body today.
Scale is therefore not simply aesthetic. With earrings in particular, weight, balance and movement determine whether a sculptural design becomes something that can genuinely be lived in.
We prototype and refine proportions with the body in mind: how an earring falls from the ear, how a pendant sits against the chest, how a bracelet moves around the wrist, or how a ring relates to the hand. A few millimetres can fundamentally alter the balance of a design.
Historical references can therefore be exaggerated or reduced. Forms may be hollowed, opened or rebalanced to remove unnecessary weight while retaining their visual presence. Many YSSO earrings are deliberately designed to appear substantial while remaining exceptionally lightweight.
Practical rules for scaling, fitting, and visual balance
- Prioritising comfort through construction, fastening and weight distribution Wearability is considered as part of the design rather than added afterwards. For earrings, this means considering not only total weight but where that weight sits in relation to the ear. For necklaces, chain or cord length determines how a pendant interacts with the body. Rings and bracelets can incorporate adjustability so that sculptural forms accommodate different wearers without compromising their shape. Fastenings, joins and attachment points are considered with the same care as the visible surface. Ideally, the mechanics of a piece should recede, leaving the form itself to take precedence. The objective is not to make historical references more conventional. It is to make ambitious, sculptural jewellery that can become part of everyday life.
Styling timeless pieces for versatility and enduring care
Jewellery acquires meaning through wear. A piece may begin with an archaeological or historical reference, but its story continues with its wearer. We design objects that are not tied to a particular season or way of dressing. A sculptural earring can transform a simple white shirt; a pendant can be worn alone or layered with pieces collected over time. The same object can feel ceremonial or entirely everyday depending on its context. Care is part of that longevity. Jewellery should be stored carefully, protected from unnecessary exposure to moisture, perfumes and cosmetics, and cleaned according to its material and finish. Over time, surfaces may naturally evolve with wear — part of the continuing life of an object rather than something that necessarily needs to be erased.
A contemporary object with an ancient memory
Balancing historical authenticity with contemporary wearability does not mean reproducing the past exactly. For YSSO, it means understanding the visual language of an object deeply enough to know what can change without losing its character. Proportion can shift. Scale can be exaggerated. Weight can be removed. Construction can evolve. What remains is the memory of the original form. Through this process, archaeological references become contemporary objects: pieces shaped by the past, handcrafted in Athens, and designed to be worn now.
Reconciling historical authenticity with contemporary comfort begins by decoding a garment's architecture: its seams, volumes, and symbolic proportions. Artisans preserve those proportions while substituting modern materials and construction that reproduce the original's behaviour. They use overlays and toiles to test layers, apply ratio-based scaling to retain silhouette, and introduce concealed supports and reversible finishes so the piece moves more freely, endures longer, and demands less care. These craft-led choices translate a garment's story into an object that honours the past and wears well today.
Treat the stages decode, materials, proportion, construction, and styling as a checklist for every project. Test each decision with wear trials, record choices on annotated patterns, and favour reversible, concealed interventions. This measured, craft-led process yields pieces that remain faithful to their origins, fit and endure modern life, and can be maintained or returned to their original intent by future makers.